SKIN PHOTOTYPES, SPF, FILTERS: FIND OUT WHAT THEY ARE AND HOW YOU CAN ENJOY THE SUN WHILE PROTECTING YOUR SKIN’S WELL-BEING.
Like the feeling of the sun on your skin? Just make sure you choose the right suncare products.
Enjoying the sunshine is a wonderful way to boost your health and your mood.
However, it's important to protect your skin whenever you’re in the sunlight, even for a short time and even if you have a naturally dark complexion. Skin protection is essential for everybody, because the sun’s rays can have extremely damaging effects on your skin, in the short term but also and especially in the long term, even many years later.
But how do you know what kind of sun protection is the most suitable for your skin?
Here’s what you need to know to enjoy the sunshine in the right way.
SUNCARE PRODUCTS: HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE FOR YOU
SKIN PHOTOTYPES AND SUNCARE PRODUCTS: THE BEST FORM OF PROTECTION
Phototypes describe the relationship between an individual’s physical characteristics — ethnicity, eye and hair colour, tanning ability — and the quantity of melanin in their skin. Depending on your phototype, you may have higher or lower levels of melanin, i.e. a higher or lower level of natural protection from the sun’s rays.
Usually, six phototypes are identified (as per the Fitzpatrick scale classification), each with the features and reaction to sun exposure indicated in the table below
The lower your phototype, the greater your risk of a reaction and, therefore, the greater the level of protection you need. On the contrary, if you have a higher phototype, you produce a greater quantity of melanin, meaning that your skin already has greater natural protection and you can opt for a lower level of protection.
It is not essential to identify your precise phototype..
Usually, those with paler skin will burn more readily, but this is not always the case. Even those with dark hair and eyes can burn easily; while, on the other hand, some people with lighter colouring may have less of a reaction to the sun.
The most important factor in choosing the most suitable suncare is knowing how your skin reacts to the sun. If you tend to burn relatively easily, the recommended level of protection is from high to very high, while those who rarely or never burn can opt for a medium or low level of protection
Usually, six phototypes are identified (as per the Fitzpatrick scale classification), each with the features and reaction to sun exposure indicated in the table below
The lower your phototype, the greater your risk of a reaction and, therefore, the greater the level of protection you need. On the contrary, if you have a higher phototype, you produce a greater quantity of melanin, meaning that your skin already has greater natural protection and you can opt for a lower level of protection.
It is not essential to identify your precise phototype..
Usually, those with paler skin will burn more readily, but this is not always the case. Even those with dark hair and eyes can burn easily; while, on the other hand, some people with lighter colouring may have less of a reaction to the sun.
The most important factor in choosing the most suitable suncare is knowing how your skin reacts to the sun. If you tend to burn relatively easily, the recommended level of protection is from high to very high, while those who rarely or never burn can opt for a medium or low level of protection
SUN PROTECTION FACTOR
The packaging of suncare products displays a number alongside the letters SPF. In fact, SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, while the number describes a product’s ability to ward off the onset of sunburn, or solar erythema.
The term “solar erythema” refers to a reddening of the skin caused by exposure to the sun, and should not be confused with a reaction to the sun which results in a red, itchy rash. This is actually a form of photodermatitis (polymorphous light eruption).
The sun protection factor is determined using a method which has been verified and validated by the European Commission and is, therefore, deemed “official” (International Standard Method ISO 24444:2010). This method is performed on volunteers (i.e. in vivo), and consists of a “simulation” of what happens to skin when it is exposed to the sun, obviously using a similar light source (solar simulator). Essentially, it is a measurement of the time it takes for sunburn to develop on unprotected skin and skin protected with a specific quantity of the product (2 mg/cm2).
By using these data as the basis for statistical calculations, the average SPF value can be obtained. The higher the SPF value, the greater the product’s ability to stave off sunburn. There is a limit to the protection that any suncare product can offer, however, and it is important to remember that no product can guarantee total protection from the risks posed by UV rays. On this specific topic, as well as many other issues related to the importance of sunscreen products for the protection of health, the European Commission has issued its views as an international authority through Recommendation No. 2006/647/EC.
In order to provide simple guidelines and therefore eliminate the many numbers used to indicate the SPF value, the European Commission recommends linking these values to certain protection levels and including both pieces of information on the product packaging.
The recommendation allows for a maximum SPF value of 50+ and, moreover, states that no claims must be made which create the impression that a suncare product provides 100% protection from UV rays.
The sun protection factor is determined using a method which has been verified and validated by the European Commission and is, therefore, deemed “official” (International Standard Method ISO 24444:2010). This method is performed on volunteers (i.e. in vivo), and consists of a “simulation” of what happens to skin when it is exposed to the sun, obviously using a similar light source (solar simulator). Essentially, it is a measurement of the time it takes for sunburn to develop on unprotected skin and skin protected with a specific quantity of the product (2 mg/cm2).
By using these data as the basis for statistical calculations, the average SPF value can be obtained. The higher the SPF value, the greater the product’s ability to stave off sunburn. There is a limit to the protection that any suncare product can offer, however, and it is important to remember that no product can guarantee total protection from the risks posed by UV rays. On this specific topic, as well as many other issues related to the importance of sunscreen products for the protection of health, the European Commission has issued its views as an international authority through Recommendation No. 2006/647/EC.
In order to provide simple guidelines and therefore eliminate the many numbers used to indicate the SPF value, the European Commission recommends linking these values to certain protection levels and including both pieces of information on the product packaging.
The recommendation allows for a maximum SPF value of 50+ and, moreover, states that no claims must be made which create the impression that a suncare product provides 100% protection from UV rays.
BROAD-SPECTRUM PROTECTION
As solar erythema is caused by UVB rays, it follows that the SPF indication refers only to the protection provided against such rays. But a suncare product should also protect you from UVA rays, which are also responsible for skin damage. To do so, it must also contain selective UVA filters, thereby offering broad-spectrum protection.
UVA protection is also determined through trials using an official method recommended to all producers of suncare products. However, unlike UVB protection, this trial is conducted in a laboratory, making it an in vitro method (International Standard Method ISO 24443:2012).
But how much UVA protection must a suncare product provide?
Based on scientific data, the protection against UVA rays must be equal to at least 1/3 of the SPF value. If the suncare product meets this requirement, the package displays the circular UVA logo.
UVA protection is also determined through trials using an official method recommended to all producers of suncare products. However, unlike UVB protection, this trial is conducted in a laboratory, making it an in vitro method (International Standard Method ISO 24443:2012).
But how much UVA protection must a suncare product provide?
Based on scientific data, the protection against UVA rays must be equal to at least 1/3 of the SPF value. If the suncare product meets this requirement, the package displays the circular UVA logo.
HOW DO SUN FILTERS WORK?
Sun filters are substances which filter or block the sun’s UVA and UVB rays through a mechanism which may involve:
- absorption, as is the case with organic filters, i.e. molecules which effectively absorb the energy of the radiation, in the same way that a spring absorbs energy;
- reflection/diffusion, typical of mineral filters (e.g. Titanium dioxide), in which the particles act like miniature mirrors.
Sun filters are ingredients regulated by the European Union, meaning that a certain number of filters are authorised in suncare products, and only in specific concentrations (for reference: Regulation (EC) No.1223/2009, Annex VI).
Broad-spectrum sun protection requires the combined use of UVA and UVB filters, usually with a majority of organic-type filters particularly in suncare products with a very high SPF, i.e. 50+.
This is because the authorised mineral filters — Titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide — are white powders which reflect the light and, when used in high concentrations, make the suncare product denser and cause it to leave a white residue on the skin (Titanium dioxide is also a pigment used in make-up products).
All the authorised filters are safe for use, and in fact mineral filters in the form of nanoparticles, or nano-filters, have recently been added to the annex listing the authorised filters.
Sun protection products contain not only filters, but other ingredients too, which are useful both for making the products easy to apply and pleasant on the skin, and for guaranteeing photostability and water resistance.
Today, research also aims to develop suncare products which not only protect from the immediate effects of the sun’s rays, but are also effective in defending the skin from long-term sun damage.
In any case, the effectiveness of suncare products depends largely on following a few simple rules for using them correctly.
To find out more, read our article: Suncare products: how to use them, how much and how often?
- absorption, as is the case with organic filters, i.e. molecules which effectively absorb the energy of the radiation, in the same way that a spring absorbs energy;
- reflection/diffusion, typical of mineral filters (e.g. Titanium dioxide), in which the particles act like miniature mirrors.
Sun filters are ingredients regulated by the European Union, meaning that a certain number of filters are authorised in suncare products, and only in specific concentrations (for reference: Regulation (EC) No.1223/2009, Annex VI).
Broad-spectrum sun protection requires the combined use of UVA and UVB filters, usually with a majority of organic-type filters particularly in suncare products with a very high SPF, i.e. 50+.
This is because the authorised mineral filters — Titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide — are white powders which reflect the light and, when used in high concentrations, make the suncare product denser and cause it to leave a white residue on the skin (Titanium dioxide is also a pigment used in make-up products).
All the authorised filters are safe for use, and in fact mineral filters in the form of nanoparticles, or nano-filters, have recently been added to the annex listing the authorised filters.
Sun protection products contain not only filters, but other ingredients too, which are useful both for making the products easy to apply and pleasant on the skin, and for guaranteeing photostability and water resistance.
Today, research also aims to develop suncare products which not only protect from the immediate effects of the sun’s rays, but are also effective in defending the skin from long-term sun damage.
In any case, the effectiveness of suncare products depends largely on following a few simple rules for using them correctly.
To find out more, read our article: Suncare products: how to use them, how much and how often?
BioNike research has developed the DEFENCE SUN range of sun protection products, guaranteeing three lines of defence:
- Protection against short-term damage, thanks to the UVA-UVB filtering system
- Protection against the free radicals generated by Infrared – IR rays..
- Protection against long-term biological damage, thanks to the “PRO-REPAIR Complex”. This exclusive complex is based on the synergic action of Niacin, a patented combination of Beta-Glucan/L-Carnosin and Vitamin E, to stimulate the skin’s natural biological defences, counter the action of free radicals and photoimmunosuppression, and strengthen the natural mechanisms for protecting and repairing cellular DNA.
- Protection against short-term damage, thanks to the UVA-UVB filtering system
- Protection against the free radicals generated by Infrared – IR rays..
- Protection against long-term biological damage, thanks to the “PRO-REPAIR Complex”. This exclusive complex is based on the synergic action of Niacin, a patented combination of Beta-Glucan/L-Carnosin and Vitamin E, to stimulate the skin’s natural biological defences, counter the action of free radicals and photoimmunosuppression, and strengthen the natural mechanisms for protecting and repairing cellular DNA.