VITAMIN C: THE POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANT FOR RADIANT, EVEN-TONED SKIN

Vitamin C – chemically known as ascorbic acid – is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for the health of the whole body, and in particular for the formation and maintenance of the skin, connective tissues, bones and teeth.​

WHAT IS VITAMIN C AND HOW DOES IT AFFECT THE SKIN?

Vitamin C is an essential water-soluble vitamin that the human body cannot produce on its own, which is why it must be obtained through food or applied via topical products.

Vitamin C performs very important functions in the skin: as a powerful antioxidant, it protects against the harmful effects of free radicals (ROS) caused by pollution and UV rays.

Furthermore, it is an essential co-factor in collagen synthesis and in the formation of the skin’s barrier function.

VITAMIN C AND ITS DERIVATIVES: WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS?

Vitamin C is a substance that is as powerful as it is unstable; in fact, it breaks down easily when exposed to heat and light, becoming inactive and giving products a yellowish tinge. In cosmetic formulations, it can be included in its pure form with the appropriate precautions, but more often, derivatives of ascorbic acid are used, in which the molecule has been made more stable.

Vitamin C derivatives are, in fact, developed to improve stability whilst retaining the biological properties of the original molecule. Among the most effective derivatives are ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, a more lipophilic derivative of ascorbic acid, ideal for emulsions, and an ether derivative, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (INCI: 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid), which has the added advantage of greater skin bioavailability.

THE FUNCTIONS OF VITAMIN C

Vitamin C plays two main roles in the skin:
  • Antioxidant: Vitamin C is highly effective at neutralising and removing reactive oxygen species (ROS) that form in the skin due to environmental pollutants and exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It therefore performs a particularly important photoprotective function in the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin.  
  • Collagen synthesis: Vitamin C acts as a co-factor for enzymes (hydroxylases) that catalyse the formation of hydroxyproline and hydroxylysine, which are necessary for stabilising the tertiary structure of collagen; it also stimulates the cells of the dermis, the fibroblasts, to produce collagen.

PROTECTION AGAINST FREE RADICALS AND OXIDATIVE STRESS

Thanks to its antioxidant properties, vitamin C counteracts the oxidative effects of reactive oxygen species (ROS) – caused by pollution and UV rays – making it a key active ingredient in preventing oxidative stress and thus combating both photoageing and chronological ageing. Oxidative stress, in fact, is also a cause of a significant acceleration in biological ageing, as an excess of ROS increases collagen degradation caused by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).

BRIGHTENING ACTION: REDUCES DARK SPOTS AND SKIN TONE IRREGULARITIES

Vitamin C is also effective in improving skin radiance and reducing dark spots and skin discolouration caused by excess melanin. Although it is not a direct inhibitor of the enzyme tyrosinase, vitamin C is able to hinder melanogenesis by blocking, at various stages, the reactions that lead to the formation of melanin, making it a valuable active ingredient for achieving an even and radiant complexion.

ANTI-AGE ACTION

Vitamin C plays a crucial role in the mechanisms of preventing and treating skin ageing.
Its anti-ageing action is primarily linked to two functions: stimulating collagen synthesis, which helps maintain the skin’s elasticity and firmness, and protecting existing collagen by reducing damage caused by free radicals and increased degradation. Collagen is, in fact, the skin’s main structural protein, and its production tends to decrease progressively with age. Vitamin C acts, on the one hand, as a catalyst in the biochemical reactions that enable the formation and stabilisation of collagen fibres, and, on the other, as an effective inhibitor of degradation processes.

COMMON MYTHS ABOUT VITAMIN C

Despite its widespread use in cosmetic products, there are still some misconceptions surrounding vitamin C.

VITAMIN C IS MERELY A BRIGHTENING INGREDIENT:
In reality, it has numerous biological functions, including antioxidant activity, collagen stimulation and protection against environmental damage.

ALL PRODUCTS CONTAINING VITAMIN C ARE THE SAME:
The effectiveness of vitamin C depends on its stability within the formulation as well as the concentration used. Not all stable derivatives are equally effective, and some molecules are not suitable for use in highly concentrated products.

VITAMIN C MAKES THE SKIN MORE SENSITIVE TO THE SUN:
Vitamin C is photosensitive, meaning it is a substance that can degrade due to light, but this does not mean it is photosensitising. A substance is defined as photosensitising when, when applied to the skin and exposed to sunlight, it changes and triggers an allergic-type reaction. On the contrary, numerous studies indicate that vitamin C can help protect the skin from UV-induced damage, thanks to its ability to neutralise the free radicals generated by sun exposure. Products containing vitamin C can therefore be applied in the morning and/or evening.

C STIM COSMECEUTICAL: THE VITAMIN C BIOREVITALISATION PROTOCOL

The Cosmeceutical VITAMIN C BIOREVITALISING protocol is a treatment designed to harness the properties of high-concentration vitamin C; it is recommended for mature skin, signs of photo-ageing, and dull, lacklustre skin.
The C STIM concentrate is formulated with 30% stabilised, highly bioavailable VITAMIN C:
  • It neutralises free radicals generated by UV rays and pollution
  • It stimulates collagen synthesis, promoting dermal trophism
  • It improves skin texture and smoothness, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and evening out the complexion for brighter, revitalised skin.
BUY NOW

DEFENCE MY AGE PEARL INTENSIVE REVITALISING SERUM

An intensive, concentrated treatment containing 10% Vitamin C that delivers instant radiance and a fresher, more radiant complexion. An ultra-light, fragrance-free formula that absorbs instantly.

Contains:
  • 10% stabilised Vitamin C: with powerful antioxidant properties, it protects the skin from oxidative stress. It also promotes the synthesis of dermal collagen for firmer, more elastic skin, enhancing radiance and skin tone.
  • Skin Firming Complex, an exclusive complex of active ingredients:
  1. Cassia seed polysaccharide: with anti-stress action, it rebalances epidermal cortisol levels and promotes the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid.
  2. Active ingredient from Schisandra berries: promotes the vitality of skin cells, increases resistance to oxidative stress and protects the dermal structures from ROS.
Recommended for revitalising the skin of women in their 40s, offering comprehensive protection against the first signs of skin ageing
BUY NOW
TRATTAMENTO

BIONIKE TREATMENTS WITH LOWER CONCENTRATIONS OF VITAMIN C

DEFENCE MY AGE Renewing Day Cream contains, in addition to SKIN RESILIENCY COMPLEX, Vitamin C in the form of a stable derivative. Although present in a lower concentration than in a serum, it is still effective in helping to defend against free radicals and promote a radiant complexion thanks to its antioxidant properties.

Discover the DEFENCE MY AGE range by BioNike
BUY NOW

DISCOVER MORE

C STIM 30% Bioavailable Vitamin C Concentrate
30% Bioavailable Vitamin C Concentrate

C STIM 30% Bioavailable Vitamin C Concentrate

COSMECEUTICAL
(1)
€125.00
Intensive Revitalising Serum
Intensive Serum

Intensive Revitalising Serum

DEFENCE MY AGE PEARL
(3)
€46.90
Best seller
Renewing Day Cream
Renewing Day Cream

Renewing Day Cream

DEFENCE MY AGE
(7)
€43.90